Information about the Sierra Nevada mountains, Spain

The Mountains, Routes, Huts & Dangers

The Mountains

Whats the best map to use in the Sierra Nevada?

Don’t expect the accuracy in the mapping here that exists for instance in the UK with the Ordnance Survey maps. There are a variety of maps that reflect accuracy to a greater or lesser extent though you should be on the lookout for possible errors, especially with regard to access dirt roads. In addition some peaks have different names and altitudes depending on which map it is that you are using.

The best map by far is the following:

Parque National de Sierra Nevada
Scale 1:40000
https://www.penibetica.com
ISBN: 84-933461-9-5

Downloadable maps (IGN series)

The Instituto Geográfico Nacional de España (IGN) maps are free for personal use. You must register first at www.ign.es and agree license terms (change language at top right).

Click ‘Download’ to reach the Download Centre. Then using ‘Search in Viewer’ identify the area you wish to download. Choose either the MTN25 ráster (1:25000) or MTN50 ráster (1:50000) product and a list of available map ‘tile’ downloads will be shown. These can be downloaded in TIFF form as a zip file.

Open Cycle Map

Mention must be made of the Open Source mapping software, Open Cycle Map www.opencyclemap.org. This is an on line global map based on data from the OpenStreetMap project. With the onset of mobile apps to navigate your way round the world the standard and accuracy of mapping has improved in the last few years. These maps provide a useful resource to download and use on your phone, tablet, computer or indeed GPS.

When does the first snow arrive and how long does it last?

In normal seasons the first major snows arrive in November, but there are exceptions. In 2008 the first snows fell on 8th October and the mountains were white until end May with up to 5m snow depth in places!

Expect some heavy snow in November. The ski centre opens reliably between 23rd and 30th November and closes end of April in normal years.

Snows last until end May for ski touring, snowshoeing and mountaineering. In April and May though the hard ice of early mornings can be replaced by soft slushy snow lower down

Are there problems with foxes whilst wild camping?

Yes. The incidence of tents being damaged by foxes in search of food is increasing. Reports from the trekkers suggest that attacks are becoming incresingly co-ordinated. Strange this, as foxes are by nature solitary animals.

Keep food away from tents or deep inside a rucksack. Keep objects away from the inside of tent walls as this can encourage the fox to try to enter. You may also try a homemade pepper spray which has had some success. Apart from that, take a dog!

Check out our news site for related "fox" posts

Are there regulations regarding wild camping in the Sierra Nevada?

The Consejeria de Medio Ambiente of Andalucia states the following with regard to wild camping in the Sierra Nevada National Park.

Contact:

Centro Administrativo del Parque Nacional y Parque Natural Sierra Nevada
Ctra. Antigua de Sierra Nevada km7
18191 Pinos Genil (Granada)
Tel: 958026300
Fax: 859026310
Email: pn.snevada@cma.junta-andalucia.es

Emergency telephone numbers 112

Guardia Civil 062

Weather in the Sierra Nevada at https://www.spanishhighs.com/weather-sierra-nevada.html

When is Los Tres Miles 300m peak ridge traverse possible for non mountaineers?

You can normally complete this and bypass any remaining snow between June and October inclusive. In most years it can be done in May and November but this does depends on late season and early season snowfall.

Up to April and from December onwards the ridge is best left to experienced mountaineers when the full traverse is a full on winter mountaineering challenge.

What are the risks of avalanches?

As we are in the hills most days during the winter and are consistently in a position to evaluate the danger, this safety information will be made available to all interested parties through our Snow, Avalanche and Mountain Conditions forum and also regularly post mountain conditions and trip reports on our News Site. This service is in operation from mid-December each year and will be updated as and when conditions materially change. We welcome any comments or remarks about the conditions.

Read more about the Avalanche risks

Most winters and after fresh snowfall there are avalanches all over the Sierra Nevada, but they are normally small and localised. The exception was in February 2011 when a massive slide nearly 1km wide in the Barranco de San Juan killed one person and injured two others.

There are four major black spots that regularly avalanche. They have become scenes of accidents because they cross normal walking or hiking trails that people use.

Are there altitude related problems in the Sierra Nevada?

We have, in reality, had very few instances where AMS has resulted in having to bring somebody down to a lower level. When that has been the case, they have recovered immediately on getting to lower ground and have had no further problems.

These mountains have much high ground over 3000m, but provided that the advice above is followed, ie go slow, then the altitude effects are lessened considerably. On countless occasions we have parked the car at 2500m (having driven up in 1hr from 650m!) and someone has gone off too quick. It is very tempting! Take it very easy, a snails pace, especially for the first 30 minutes after leaving the car.

We find that in that time our body adjusts better and we can then continue a little more rapidly. However, we live and train here in these mountains. Those coming straight in from sea level will find it harder.

Read more about Altitude related problems in the Sierra Nevada

Refuges

Guarded - The Refugio Poqueira

Grid reference 712 982
Height 2500m
Tel +34 958 34 33 49 or +34 958 06 41 11
www.refugiopoqueira.com
refugiopoqueira@hotmail.com

An excellent guarded refuge with 84 beds open all year. Lies on a small plateau at 2500m just south east of the Río Mulhacén. Beds, duvets and blankets in dormitory style accommodation. Excellent meal service. Affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo. Has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs. Essential to reserve well in advance.

Normal winter access is recommended from Capileira (Cebadilla Eléctrica) and via the more sheltered Barranco de Poqueira. Early or late season access in calm conditions can also be made from the acequias (irrigation channel) route or from the Hoya del Portillo.

The Refugio Poqueira website gives a very useful weekly report on the status of the unguarded Refugio Vivac La Caldera and Refugio Villavientos along with important information about the current snow and mountain conditions.

Guarded - The Postero Alto

Grid reference 819 100
Height 1870m
Tel +34 616 50 60 83 or +34 958 06 61 10
refugioposteroalto.es
refugioposteroalto@hotmail.com

Open dates
January to June - Wednesday 1530 to Sunday 1700
July and August - open all the time
September to December – weekends, holidays and festivals

The Refugio Postero Alto makes a very convenient start point and is ideally placed to access the first northerly 3000m+ peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It lies at the foot of the Picón de Jérez at 1900m altitude and is good for accessing the Barranco del Alhorí, northern Sierra Nevada and indeed the ‘Los Tres Miles’ Integral.

Guarded refuge open at weekends and fiesta holidays (Easter, Christmas, New Year). Otherwise there is a winter quarters always open and available. Has beds for 65 persons in 7 dormitories. Canteen, bar, hot water, blankets, heating in all rooms. Free WiFi connection.

It is affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo which has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs (see above). Essential to reserve in advance, which can be done on line.

Is booking in advance necessary for the Poqueira hut?

Absolutely. Even more so now than in the past. The hut seems to be getting busier and pre booking in advance is essential to reserve beds and meals. In busy times (ie easter, christmas, new year) you may even be allocated a place on the floor therefore you will need a sleeping mat and sleeping bag as well.

Guardians: Rafael Quintero y Ansi Mosiero
Telephone: +34 958 34 33 49
Mobile: +34 659 55 42 24
Email: refugiopoqueira@hotmail.com

Details about the refuge or visit their website

What Alpine Clubs have reciprocal rights with the Poqueira Refugio?

To the best of our knowledge the following have reciprocal rights for reduced Poqueira Refugio hut and meal fees:

The affiliations normally run from January to December each year and are very good value. Rather surprisingly, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) does not have these reciprocal rights with Andalucian huts.

By showing your affiliated card the price of a nights stay at the Poqueira hut drops from about 11 to 5 euros and a similar drop is experienced in meal costs (2008 prics).

If only climbing or trekking in Andalucia I would recommend the Federacion Andaluza de Montanismo. As we climb throughout the world we use the Austrian Alpine Club.

What guarded or unguarded huts and refuges are there?

We maintain a full list of both guarded and unguarded refuges, huts and shelters in the Sierra Nevada.

Weather & Climate

Climate & Conditions

Many misjudgments of the weather are due to the changing of the seasons and the related mountain risks that brings. Traditionally, the autumn and spring are the most unpredictable, as it may be t-shirt and shorts weather on the Costa Tropical, yet people could well be fighting blizzard conditions at 3000m. A fine day on the coast can lead unprepared and ill-equipped people into the mountains.

Strangely enough, the winter is more predictable. Most mountain goers seem to recognise that there is severe weather potential and at a bare minimum it will be very cold and windy. The Sierra Nevada does provide some reliable snow cover in the mountains from December to May.

Summer generally offers fine weather for high level walking and trekking- travelling light save for clothing required for the odd afternoon thunderstorm or cooling breezes.

One of the major benefits the Sierra Nevada brings is the stability of it's climate. Big high pressure systems sit over the area for months at a time in the case of summer and for long periods during the winter months. The downhill ski resort is said to be the sunniest ski resort in the world. Winter is the most unsettled and wettest period though and when bad weather does come in expect it to be generally heavy, violent and short-lived.

There are huge temperature differences between the various seasons. At 3000m in January and February the air temperature without wind chill can frequently dip below -10ºC. In July and August a normal daytime temperature at 3000m would be 15-20ºC.

And of course this huge variability between not only the seasons, but also the tremendous altitude differences between the high mountains and the costas is part of the attraction of the place!

Weather Station & Webcams

Check out our own Weather Station. We also have a webcam based above our cortijo. In addition you can see the Sierra Nevada webcams from the ski centre to get idea of conditions.

Dehydration & the power of the sun

Here more than anywhere it is so important to keep hydrated. The intense sun and the high altitudes combine to suck the water out of the body. The reason most visitors have headaches or related problems here is down to dehydration.

Don’t forget that the sun and altitude are still working to drain your body of fluid, even if there is a seemingly cooling breeze and you are feeling fine. In summer make sure you take a minimum of three litres of water with you and make sure you drink it on a regular basis.

At all times of the year sun and lip cream are necessary. In the summer months a suitable sun hat covering the back of the neck is recommended. Many people prefer to walk the high hills in summer wearing t-shirt and shorts. Due to the prickly nature of the vegetation, the sharp loose rock and the propensity to burn the uncovered parts of the body, the advice is to cover up with long trousers.

The Natural World

Plants

116 of the 2100 catalogued plants are threatened and 80 of these are endemic and can only be found in the Sierra Nevada massif.

Artemisia granatensis (Sierra Chamomile) is endemic and is on the critical list due to years of being over collected for it's reported healing properties. Another endangered species is the Papaver lapeyrousianum (Sierra Nevada Poppy) which can only be found in certain areas close to the summit of Mulhacén (3482m).

One of the most fragile and unique ecosystems in the mountain range are the borreguiles and are home to many of the endemic species. 35% of the plant species that grow here are not found anywhere else in the world. During the spring you will find a beautiful carpet of alpine flowers and the only carnivorous plant that grows in the Sierra Nevada.

The only carnivorous plant in the Sierra Nevada is the Pinguicula nevadensis (Sierra Nevada Tirana) which grows in the wettest areas above 2500m where, depending on snow melt, it blooms in July and catches insects with it's sticky leaves.

Probably the most emblematic plant of the Sierra Nevada is the Estrella de las Nieves (Plantago nivalis - Star of the Snows) that has a legend of being the flower of eternal love.

Birds

According to the latest information over 60 species of bird live in the Sierra Nevada.

Birds of prey often seen include the Golden Eagle, Bonelli's Eagle, Short-toed and Booted Eagles. Many smaller species of birds of prey such as Kestrels, Peregrine Falcons and Goshawks are frequently spotted.

Griffon Vultures are common and seemingly dominate the skies during the late spring to autumn. The vulture is nature’s natural dustbin cleaner and does a superb job of clearing the land of unwanted carcasses. The successful re-introduction of the Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture), in a nearby mountain range means there is a chance that you will see one of these beautiful rare vultures visiting the Sierra Nevada.

The friendly Alpine Accentor is found above 2000m but seems to like the Mulhacén summit area in particular in summer. It is mainly resident but winters more widely at lower latitudes.

Skylark, Red-billed Chough, Wheatear and Rock Thrush are some of the few non raptors that can be seen. An winter visitor is the Ring Ouzel.

Animals

Mammals to be found include the Spanish Ibex, Fox, Wild Cat, Martens, Snow Vole and Wild Boar. There is a thriving population of Spanish Ibex (Cabra Montés) but they are now facing threats from illegal hunting and the fatal disease of sarcoptic mange.